Theirs is a Bangalow hospitality love story. They met over Corner Kitchen’s coffee machine, where Jack, Bangalow-born and bred, was working as the barista after returning from six years in Brisbane and Melbourne. Sophia, hailing from the café’s namesake suburb of Elwood and raised in country Victoria, was a relatively recent arrival to the area, managing the newly opened Woods. On their very first date they talked of starting their own place.

So when the chance came to take on Burringbar’s only café in 2019, they jumped at it. They loved the village’s old-school charm, which reminded Jack of the Bangalow of his childhood. And it was affordable. “Coming in with a skeleton budget, we felt like it was the last little country town within striking distance where we could dip our toes in and have some fun working together,” he explains.

Hospitality is tough. But for Jack and Sophia, it was a particularly wild ride from the moment they opened the doors. In their first weeks, bushfires came within just a few kilometres of the village, bringing prolonged heavy smoke, ash fall and ember risk, and a steady stream of frazzled evacuees, their cars crammed full of belongings.

Then just four months later, the pandemic was declared, which saw the first-time operators spend the next two years grappling with the challenging logistics of ever-shifting regulations. The silver lining was that with the café as one of the village’s few social hubs, a strong and deep connection was forged between the couple and the community, and they soon relocated to an idyllic rental nearby.

The relief at the ultimate lifting of restrictions in late 2021 was unfortunately short-lived when, again, just four months later, the same weather system that inundated Lismore flooded low-lying parts of Burringbar and brought devastating landslips further up the Range.

Sophia, five months pregnant at the time, found herself stuck on the Gold Coast while visiting her grandmother. Back home, Jack refused to let the four flooded causeways in his path prevent him from opening the doors at Elwood while the town still had power. Once the waters were low enough, he packed a survival kit and made his way on foot to the car they’d left on the other side, even swimming part of the way.

Cut off, the residents rallied, transforming the area around the café into a command post and recovery hub, corralling services and supplies. Amid the crisis, Elwood provided a vital community space – serving some of the most delicious coffees of Jack’s career, thanks to the buckets of fresh Jersey milk delivered by local cheesemaker, Deb Allard.

But again, the dust barely had a chance to settle when, just four months later, on the evening of June 23 2022, with Sophia in the early stages of an overdue labour, Jack’s phone rang. There was a fire at the café.

Sophia’s sister en route, Jack raced into town, arriving just as the battering ram was about to break down the heritage shopfront’s beautiful cedar doors. He rushed to unlock them, and along with most of Burringbar, watched in shock as firefighters brought the blaze under control.

With forensic reports completed and the building deemed safe, Jack was escorted inside, where he retrieved a charred stack of five-dollar notes from the safe. The café was dark and smoky, but he didn’t think it looked too bad. Plans were made to meet the chief fire inspector early the next morning, and he locked the doors behind him and returned home to Sophia, whose labour had stalled in the stress.

After a sleepless night, Jack headed back to the café at 6am, finding the doors smashed wide open. He feared the café had been ransacked, but it was much worse. The fire, thought to have been started by an electrical fault, had reignited in the early hours of the morning. The building was unsalvageable.

Surreal days stretched on, with Sophia becoming increasingly overdue and Jack navigating the gruelling insurance process – which, three years later, is still ongoing – until finally, a week later, daughter Mally was born.

Jack, Sophia and Elwood had become firmly embedded in the tight-knit community, and their absence was felt profoundly. “It’s such an odd thing to experience,” Sophia says. “It was like the loss of a friend. We still have people saying how sad they are it’s not there anymore.” Today, the vacant block remains as a literal hole in the village.

They continued living in Burringbar, but when Jack’s father suffered a debilitating stroke six months later, they returned to the Bangalow family home. After some time to recalibrate, Jack started working at Old Quarter Coffee and Sophia at Harvest, where she remained until baby Miles joined the mix in 2024. “It’s given us all a new perspective,” Jack says of their multi-generational living arrangement. “They support us as much as we support them.”

But Jack and Sophia weren’t done with their dream, or with the community they loved so much – and thanks to an interesting proposal from an old Elwood neighbour, they had a chance to pick up where they left off.

Bron of Natural Wine Shop & Bar was taking over the old laundromat out the back of her store when she approached Jack and Sophia with the idea of sharing the space: their coffee by day, her wine by night. This increasingly popular hybrid hospitality model suited them perfectly.

With no kitchen and an atmospheric fit-out that wouldn’t be out of place in one of Melbourne’s laneways, the space called for a different strategy from last time. And a new identity. “Elwood was a really special time for us,” explains Jack. “We decided to leave the name to rest with the memory of it.”

For Jack and Sophia, ‘Pour Good’ is about being conscious of the entirety of the process behind the cup of coffee in your hands – from cultivation to labour to preparation. If you’re going to drink coffee, make it good.

Underpinned by Old Quarter Coffee, Pour Good showcases different roasters each week, offering a menu of experimental specialty cold pours alongside the classics, and a pastry cabinet stocked with Lehem Breadhouse goodies. They’re open Friday through Monday mornings, with plans for additional days now that Jack is no longer juggling his travelling sales role at Old Quarter.

The demand is certainly there, not only from locals but from the steady stream of visitors the Rail Trail now brings to the area – something Jack and Sophia passionately hope Bangalow will get to experience too, having seen the phenomenal effect it’s had on the Burringbar community. Jack was on the platform the night the last train ran through town. “And we’ll be first in line when the tender goes out for the old Bangalow station!” he says.

@pour.good

29 Broadway, Burringbar

Fri/Sat/Sun/Mon 7.30am – 12.30pm

How long would it take you to gobble down an “old fashioned” 130 gm beef burger with the lot (meaning beetroot, lettuce, tomato, carrot, pineapple, bacon, egg, caramelised onion and cheese, tomato relish and mayonnaise), a 500ml chocolate thick shake, and a side order of chips?

That’s what the contestants in the Bangalow Show’s Big Bang Bite competition have lined up to do every year since 2011. Though popular with enthusiastic onlookers, only a dozen or so seasoned scoffers are brave enough to enter. The youngest recorded entrant in previous comps was just eight years old – generally this event is most popular with hungry hollow-legged teenagers, with a few brave adults also trying their luck. It’s also far more popular with boys than girls. “There’s always a good turnout,” says Tim Jung, owner of the Bang Burger Bar which provides the burgers on the day – and throughout the year.

This year, his sous chef, Tim Faggotter, will not only host the event, circulating the Show “loud and proud” in the preceding hours to rustle up interest and scout for new entrants, but he’ll enter the competition too. So, Tim Jung has created a new challenge: ‘Beat the Chef’. Tim Faggotter has already been in training for some weeks and has his time down to just under three minutes – though that’s only to eat the burger, not slurp down the thick shake and gobble up the chips. (The usual length of time it takes to down the lot is around five minutes.)

Early in October, five entrants had already signed up, but you have until 11.30am on the Saturday to register. Apart from bragging rights, the winner receives $50 and a stylish rosette, which is to be worn as a badge of honour for the rest of the day.

Next door to the Bang Burger Bar is the popular bottle shop, The Cellar Bangalow. Two employees there are already in training for this event. Jack Taylor, who recently moved to the area from Singapore, is a rugby player and a boxer, so is a big eater yearround. He’s dead serious about his intent to win. “I’m not here to be average,” the 18-year-old says. His secret to winning? Not eating breakfast or lunch before the event.

At the best of times, carnivore Jack eats four meals a day, and a month out from the competition, has his time at three minutes and 45 seconds – and that’s just for the burger. He suspects that he may put on weight while he’s in training, and being offseason, that weight may hang around. But Jack considers it’s worth it. At the risk of informing the competition of his technique, he says his winning strategy is this: “I have big hands. I’ll squish down the burger and chips with one hand, and have the thick shake in the other, so one hand is always at the ready. I’ve been in training to win this competition my whole life!”

Feature image: Past contestants, Shane Olive and Mitch Hutchison, giving the Big Bang Bite a red hot go Photo Maralyn Hanigan

In 2005, a coffee roaster imported from Turkey sat in a Bangalow storage shed, waiting for its moment to bring fresh-roasted beans and cups of caffeinated goodness to the community. The plan was ambitious (and delicious): a roastery and bakery café in the historic Readings building. But when Council approval failed to materialise, Bangalow’s David and Jenny Kennedy did what all good small business owners must do at some point – pivot.

“We just needed to get roasting,” Jenny says. And so they did – in a roller-door space in Byron Bay’s industrial estate. With their Turkish coffee roaster fired up and ready to go, Bun Coffee was born.

Twenty years later, Bun Coffee has grown into one of the Northern Rivers’ best-loved coffee roasters – found in homes, local cafés, market stalls and on shelves at FoodWorks and Pantry 29. Still independently owned, still proudly local, it remains a business with a warm heart and a passion for the perfect blend.

For David, the obsession with coffee goes back even further than that humble Byron shed. Growing up in Yorkshire, he became fascinated with coffee in his teens – an unlikely interest for someone in the teadrinking heartland of the UK.

After moving to Sydney in the late 1980s, he worked in the burgeoning café scene – notably captaining the well-loved Le Chocoreve café in inner city Glebe, where he earned the nickname ‘Bun’, a reference to the English ‘sticky bun.’ It was around this time that David visited a roaster with the goal of creating his own bespoke café blend that would become his signature brew. That blend, created in 1989, is still in the Bun Coffee range today.

Not long after, David sold his café and returned to that same roaster – eventually becoming their head roaster and head of sales. “That’s where he learned the invaluable discipline and principles of the roasting craft,” Jenny says.

Moving to Bangalow in 2005, the pair settled into community life, raising three children, and creating a rainbow-coloured coffee empire from the ground up. The business launched with four house blends in what would become its signature, candy-coloured packaging, including David’s original blend (also known as ‘the yellow one’).

Today, the brand has seven regular blends and a rotating library of more than 65 single origin beans – possibly the largest single origin offering from any Australian roaster. “I don’t know anyone else who does what David does,” says Jenny. “It’s a true passion.”

Among those single origins is Byron Blue, a coffee grown in the subtropical paradise of Broken Head. “Just last week we went to the farm Emu Tree Paddock to pick up the freshly hulled green beans – it was a beautiful thing to buy direct from the grower,” says Jenny. “The aspect, the view, the fruit – it’s some of the most exceptional coffee in the world.”

Much has changed in coffee over the past 20 years – and Bun Coffee has evolved with it. “People are much more discerning now,” David says. “There’s been a real surge of interest in organics, in single origins, and in brewing styles. It used to be espresso, plunger or filter – now we’ve got batch brews, cold drip, immersion cold brew, V60s, Aeropress…”

To deepen his knowledge, David recently studied a postgraduate diploma in specialty coffee at the Zurich University of Applied Sciences. The 18-month course covered everything from cultivation and trade, to roasting, sensory evaluation and brewing. “It was exhaustive,” he laughs.

With the rise of automation in cafés – including smart machines that talk to grinders and adjust settings in real time – David sees another shift on the horizon. “There’s definitely more automation coming. Some cafés in Europe just press a button and hand you a croissant while the coffee’s made.”

Consistency and precision are very much part of the art of coffee, but there’s something warm and essential in the exchange between barista and customer. “That human element matters,” he says.

Over the years, Jenny and David been generous supporters of school fundraisers and local causes – always grounded in community. “We’ve been so fortunate to make this our business,” Jenny says. “And we’re so grateful to the locals who’ve supported us – in cafés, markets, and shops. They need to know that when they buy Bun Coffee, they’re supporting a local business who employs local people.”

In fact, many of the team – including Bangalow local, head roaster and ‘coffee machine whisperer’, Andre Schoeman – have been with the organisation for over 10 years, “which is just brilliant,” Jenny says.

As the business enters its third decade, their energy hasn’t waned. David is passionate about the future of coffee production, including a keen interest in global variety trials, and climate-adaptive planting research, as well as the potential of new species of coffee which could help to safeguard the future of global coffee production against the ravages of unprecedented climate events.

Behind the vibrant packaging that lines local shelves, Bun Coffee is still very much a hands-on operation. David and Jenny remain involved in every part of the business. “We started at the Bangalow and Byron markets – selling bags of beans by hand. That’s how it all began,” says Jenny. Industry accolades and global know-how aside, it’s the small things – a good cup, a loyal customer, a connection to growers – that matter most.

It’s a story familiar to many regional towns across New South Wales, where historic pubs are increasingly being gutted, refitted and rebranded to match an urban aesthetic. Think grey walls, exposed bulbs and pale wood stools – venues that feel more slick than historic. Residents are rightly concerned that historic buildings may be lost beneath a shiny modern renovation. But recent work by Bangalow architect Duncan Sproul is proof that there is another way. Just an hour down the road, the Argyle Hotel in Maclean offers a masterclass in how to restore a heritage pub with care and integrity.

First settled by Europeans in the 1830s, Maclean is the traditional land of the Yaegl people. As with the Bangalow area, cedargetting and dairy were key industries at this time, alongside sugar, coffee, tobacco and more. A single-storey wooden pub – the first Argyle Hotel – was built in 1867. In 1887, work commenced on a new two-storey, 14-room hotel, made of stone with a concrete foundation, and seemingly no expense spared on the grand Late Victorian details. The Argyle Hotel opened in 1894.

Tooth & Co. operated the pub from the early 20th century until the 1970s, and the 1980s saw the first of several alterations aimed at increasing commercial space at the expense of heritage. Significant architectural features were obscured with paint and panelling, resulting in a façade that bore little resemblance to the building once described as “the best finished hotel north of Sydney.”

Fast-forward 40-odd years, and the historic pub was purchased and painstakingly brought back to life in collaboration with Duncan and his partner. The brief from Sally and Dhugal was clear: rather than gutting the space, they chose to celebrate its history.

“The original building had been desecrated in the 1970s by not having a heritage order on it – and basically, a beautiful old 1894 pub had been turned into a concrete block. It was ugly,” says Duncan. “Previous owners had filled in all the verandas and crammed in as many rooms as they could upstairs.”

But it wasn’t just an under-utilised eyesore. Built at a time when there was little regulation regarding safety in public buildings, the old hotel needed to be brought into the 21st century in terms of access, fire safety compliance, electrical and plumbing. “It wasn’t just a makeover – it was quite a big undertaking,” says Duncan.

Coincidentally, Duncan’s grandmother was born and raised in Maclean, so the old pub – known then as the Middle Pub and later as Cane Cutters – was a vague memory for him. Getting to work on the unlovely, criminally bland building revealed some remarkable charms. “We had a lot of historic photos to work from, but it’s pretty clear once you start peeling things back how it had all been laid out, and the craftsmanship,” says Duncan.

One of the pub’s most striking features is its honey-coloured chiselled sandstone blocks, which had been painted over in a previous ‘renovation’. Sodablasted back to their original state, they became the cornerstone of the restoration, with new blocks –sourced locally and used to re-instate a section of wall that had unfortunately been removed decades earlier – such a close match to the original that it’s possible they came from the same quarry. “Honestly, it’s hard to tell the difference – except that the new wall is just a bit cleaner, a bit straighter,” he laughs.

Upstairs, the grand wraparound verandas (boarded over in some previous incarnation) were carefully re-instated and are now the perfect place to relax and enjoy views of the town and glimpses of the nearby Clarence River.

Duncan describes the project as a balancing act – respecting the past while making space for the present. “The only real point of difference with the veranda was that we couldn’t reinstate the iron lacework – it just wasn’t financially feasible,” he says. Nor, would it have been compliant to current standards given the great height of the veranda. “But the approach to fine timber detailing was a very close match, and it really returned the building to its original beauty.”

These days, hospitality venues tend to focus on maximising floor space and gaming as a formula for success. We know the devastating impact problem gambling has on the community, so it’s refreshing to see a project that embraces a different approach.

“Sally and Dhugal actually reduced the floor space ratio, which is unusual in commercial developments,” says Duncan. “The locals were genuinely excited about the old pub being restored to its former glory. The buzz in town was incredible.”

The Argyle now boasts a popular dining spot serving restaurant quality meals alongside favourite pub classics with an emphasis on fresh produce and quality meats (including Barcoo Beef, Sally and Dhugal’s other venture). Upstairs comprises four boutique accommodation suites – thoughtfully styled and designed by Sally (an interior designer).

“The value of old buildings just can’t be underestimated. You see it happening now in Sydney with Chris Minns’ proposals to increase high density in what is ‘old Sydney’,” says Duncan, who worked with his partner on a major refurbishment of the Teachers Federation headquarters in the former 1920s Silk Knit House industrial building in Surry Hills.

“When you look at the Argyle, it really fits the context of the town. You don’t have to build a booze barn. When it’s full, it has a great vibe – it’s comfortable, it suits the town, and it just feels right.”

The result? A Hotel? that looks and feels like it belongs – not just to Maclean’s history, but to its community.

argylehotel.com.au

Feature image

The Argyle Hotel in Maclean, restored to its former glory Photo Adam Woodleigh

Cancer touches so many lives. Within our own CWA branch, a number of members have experienced cancer first-hand – either as patients or as carers. We’ve seen the strength it takes to face diagnosis and treatment, and the profound impact it has on families. That’s why this cause is close to our hearts.

While the Biggest Morning Tea is well known for raising funds for vital cancer research, we want to shine a light on the many other ways the Cancer Council supports Australians affected by cancer.

Every day, their services help real people in real ways. In 2021 alone, the Cancer Council provided over 29,000 transport trips and 33,000 nights of accommodation so people could get to treatment. They delivered more than 4,000 counselling sessions, and their resources were accessed over 250,000 times. Their support line (13 11 20) connected more than 38,000 people with experienced cancer nurses who offered guidance, compassion and care when it was most needed.

The Cancer Council’s work goes well beyond research. They provide financial, legal and workplace support, offer peer connection through programs like Cancer Connect, and ensure people in rural and regional areas can access services too. They’re also the largest non-government funder of cancer research in Australia, investing $51.7 million in 2021. And through campaigns like National Skin Cancer Action Week, they reached over 21 million Australians with life-saving SunSmart messages.

As a local organisation that believes in the power of community and kindness, we are proud to support this important cause. The Biggest Morning Tea is not just about raising money – it’s about raising awareness, creating connection, and reminding people that they are not alone.

We would love for you to join us. Come along, enjoy a cuppa, something delicious to eat, and a chat with neighbours – all while helping to support the Cancer Council’s incredible work.

Seats are limited, so we encourage the community to book early. Let’s come together to show our support, celebrate resilience, and help fund a future where fewer Australians are impacted by cancer.

Thursday 22 May, 10am-12pm | Moller Pavilion, Bangalow Tickets via Eventbrite

Bangalow CWA

(Also note: CWA Cake and Produce Stall – Saturday 31 May, 8am-12pm

Photos Lyn McCarthy Niche Pictures

This soup is packed with feel-good veggies and has a tomato base, making it a filling and flavourful main dish. If you have any leftover parmesan rind, add it to the pot – it will give the soup a rich, full-bodied flavour. Use up any vegetables in your crisper along with new season produce. You can use fresh, frozen, or a combination of both.

INGREDIENTS

• 1½ cups green or brown lentils (canned is okay)
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 1 cup finely chopped carrots
• 1 cup fresh corn, chopped
• 2 cups onion, finely diced
• 2–3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 3 cups kale or spinach, chopped
• 1 cup finely chopped celery
• 1 can unsalted diced tomatoes
• 4 cups vegetable or chicken broth (low sodium or homemade)
• 2 tsp finely chopped thyme
• ½ tsp salt and ½ tsp pepper
• 1 parmesan rind (optional)
• 1½ tbsp red wine vinegar
• 4 tbsp chopped parsley, to garnish
• ½ cup grated parmesan cheese

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Heat oil in a large pot or Dutch oven. Add onion, carrot and celery. Cook until softened – about 6–10 minutes. Add garlic and stir until fragrant.
2. Add broth, lentils, tomatoes, corn, thyme, salt, pepper, red wine vinegar and parmesan rind (if using). Bring to the boil over medium heat and cook for 15–20 minutes. Add more broth if needed.
3. Add kale or spinach and cook, covered, until tender (5–10 minutes). Remove and discard the parmesan rind if used.

To serve, sprinkle with fresh parsley and grated parmesan.

This soup freezes well, so it’s great for meal prepping.

It’s funny to think what we eat, what we discard, what is a delicacy, what we consider edible or what is not. Of course, society dictates what we consider to be food – our families, the wider community, and hospitality businesses present us with meals from these ingredients that we develop a taste (or distaste) for. Some venture outside the narrow bounds of commercially produced farm foods and experiment with an exotic culinary ingredient from time to time. Then, you’ve got people like Peter Hardwick.

Peter has turned a passion for unearthing unlikely edibles into a career as a professional forager, supplying kitchens and collaborating with chefs with a bounty of intriguing ingredients. Returning from foraging trips scouring for rogue rhizomes and escapee greens, Peter and his partner Mee Hee, a psychotherapist and “brilliant home cook” who also enjoys a spot of foraging, get creative. The pair slice, dice, infuse, ferment, smoke, dry, and grind all manner of locally acquired forest and feral foods intended for the restaurant sector. Here, says Peter, is the most logical place for our palates to be introduced to new ways of eating ancestral ingredients.

“I particularly enjoy the feral fruits, like feral peaches and feral apples, the mushrooms,” says Mee Hee. The term “feral” denotes a domestic food plant that’s gone wild, the edible parts taking on unique characteristics that give an artisanal edge to their cultivated counterparts. “Firstly, I’m just inspired by the look of them, and then because I’m a massive foodie, I will think about the flavours, and what sort of foods are going to be really tasty, and there’ll be some kind of a creative twist in the moment of actually cooking.”

Part science, part imagination, Peter’s foraging work relies on sturdy knowledge of plant recognition, and phytochemistry is vital to understanding the uses of wild ingredients, their flavour profiles, and hence culinary uses. Of course, the ‘wild’ food movement – embracing bushfoods or native foods, weeds (introduced or endemic) or feral produce – is not new. Peter picked his first peck at age four, enjoying that childhood rite of passage of sucking the nectar from a honeysuckle bloom. In his teens, he realised that there was more at stake – motivated by the conservation movement, and in particular the preservation of rainforests for more than just timber.

“As a forager, you do see just how much native vegetation, as well as introduced vegetation, gets slashed back or sprayed. Maybe we could be more sensitive to the environment that we’re around?” he says.

Farmers and home gardeners have long waged war on nature, dominating the natural way of things and insisting on lawns and neat rows of perfect crops, grown out of season and rendered tasteless. What we call weeds, on the other hand, are robust and tenacious; they thrive in spite of our best efforts to quell them. We could all learn something from the persistence of these plants.

Eating foraged food is the epitome of eating seasonally because you’re going and picking stuff that’s wild and growing at that moment in time. Native crops further support soil quality, and Peter adds that many wild-harvested ingredients also contain medicinal qualities such as antioxidants and natural anti-inflammatory properties.

“Peter has a very sensitive palate and he’s an amazing flavourist,” says Mee Hee. “He also sparks ideas on what to cook and different flavour combinations, which I wouldn’t necessarily think of myself.”

One of these exotic tastes is a pine bark syrup that Peter makes from the bark of the feral pine trees that grow around Bangalow. The pine bark syrup called mugolio is smoked and then turned into a caramel, or the bark can also be lightly roasted and ground as an addition to pancakes. There’s also been a granola and an ice-cream. Local chef Matt Stone turned another syrup, this time made from bunya nut cones, into a show-stopping dessert. “It’s based on an Italian pine syrup idea, and Matt featured that with the chocolate and citrus.” Back in their home kitchen, Peter and Mee Hee have been experimenting with wild ice-creams, chutneys, and poached fruit, enthusing that the feral varieties have an intensity of flavour that is both familiar and somehow, more.

But bringing the nation’s food habits around to consuming unconventional edibles on a daily basis might take some time.

“I made a sort of pickled kimchi out of young, succulent Farmer’s Friend leaves, and we were serving it up at Harvest restaurant in Newrybar. Someone told me they jumped in a taxi in Lismore and the taxi driver was laughing, saying, ‘Oh, I’ve heard there’s a restaurant down the coast serving up Farmer’s Friend kimchi!’ and the driver thought it was hilarious. It’s funny how the word gets out when you start serving these things up and it creates a bit of amusement because it totally turns people’s heads around,” says Peter.

If you think about your own food journey, you’ll see that your tastes and preferences evolve over time. I didn’t even know what an avocado was when I was a kid, but my children devour them. Similarly, the idea of raw fish – raw anything – would have been considered reckless, deranged even. But today, we gladly accept sashimi, carpaccio, ceviche, tartare, tataki. Look how far we’ve come? Could fungus, bark, and weeds be next?

“What really looks interesting from a food security point of view is that some of these weedy food plants might be able to handle climate change extremes better than some of our conventional crops,” says Peter, adding that salt-tolerant plants like feral tomatoes and beachside succulents could become increasingly more popular as a food source. “Getting the wild ingredients into a form that people can relate to is a big part of it,” says Peter. “That’s the heart of cooking or cheffing with these ingredients. These feral and ancestral plants are important for preserving diversity, as well as our food security. They go hand in hand.”

Join the Sample Food Festival Wild Food Foraging Masterclass with Peter Hardwick for a unique one-hour foraging walk around Bangalow exploring the unusual foods that grow around us. Saturday 7 September, 11.30am samplefoodevents.com

Family

Mulled drinks, particularly those made with wine or cider, have a history that dates back thousands of years. The tradition of ‘mulling’ involves heating beverages and adding spices, and is part of the cuisine and tradition of many cultures and countries.

INGREDIENTS        

• 2 litres of apple cider or apple juice
• 1 large orange, sliced
• 1 large apple, sliced
• 3 cinnamon sticks
• 1 tablespoon whole cloves
• 1 tablespoon whole allspice
• 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/4 cup brown sugar or honey (optional, to taste)
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

METHOD

1. Pour the apple cider or juice into a large pot.
2. Add the sliced orange and apple to the pot.
3. Place the cinnamon sticks, cloves, and allspice in a cheesecloth or spice bag and add it to the pot. This makes it easier to remove the spices later. If you don’t have a cheesecloth, you can add them directly to the pot, but you’ll need to strain the drink before serving.
4. Add the ground nutmeg and ground ginger to the pot.
5. If using, stir in the brown sugar or honey.
6. Heat the mixture over low heat (or set the slow cooker to low) and let it simmer for at least 1 hour. The longer it simmers, the more intense the flavours will be. Stir occasionally.
7. Just before serving, stir in the vanilla extract.
8. Remove the spice bag or strain the mixture to remove whole spices.
9. Serve the mulled cider warm in mugs, garnished with additional slices of orange or apple if desired.

The Ancient Greeks and Romans were some of the first people to experiment with mulling as a way of preserving wine, enhancing its flavour (remember, winemaking was still in its infancy in those days), and warming things up through the cooler winter months. The addition of spices such as cinnamon and cloves, which were exotic and expensive at the time, added a new dimension to the drink and probably helped make those early winemaking endeavours a little more palatable.

Over time, mulled wine became associated with festive occasions, particularly Christmas in Europe, and it’s still a common seasonal tipple in wintertime. Our Christmases tend to be scorchingly hot, and some with European heritage have taken to hosting a Christmas in July event, allowing them to enjoy preparing and eating foods traditionally associated with a Northern Hemisphere festive meal – heavy, hearty game meats, gravy, hot puddings, and mulled drinks.

Dry July is a great opportunity to cook up a batch of mulled cider or juice to enjoy around the fire pit. Mulled drinks are particularly appealing in the cooler months, as they are served warm and spiked with things like honey or ginger, which can soothe winter sniffles and lift your spirits. You can experiment with a variety of juices such as apple or cranberry; non-alcoholic wines or cider would also work, and mixing up your spice blend to include your favourite mix of warm, zesty comfort in a cup.

The dehydrated citrus slices sold by the CWA and in other stores around 2479 are the perfect garnish for your cup of mulled goodness.

How about candied kumquats, sliced and sprinkled with a generous amount of sugar and then slow-roasted in the oven? You can add them to sweet or savoury dishes. Place in jars for future use, the same with mandarins. Scatter caster sugar over a baking dish. Preheat the oven to 220°C. Halve mandarins and press cut side down onto the sugar. Let stand until sugar dissolves and forms a thick crust (about five minutes). Turn your mandarins cut side up and add the juice and rind of one lemon and one orange with two tablespoons of water. Pour around the mandarins and roast until juicy and beginning to caramelise. Serve with ginger custard or ice cream.

On the savoury side, citrus salsa verde is delicious with salmon. Juice and zest one lemon and one orange. Add two tablespoons of olive oil, some grated garlic, and a teaspoon of smoked paprika. Add chopped herbs, parsley and coriander. Serve with salmon that has been slow-roasted with citrus juices as a zesty side.

Citrus salts are an easy addition to your seasonings. Add an equal amount of salt flakes and micro-planed zest. Mix with your fingers to distribute the zest. Air-dry in the open and when dry, store in an airtight container. Use your imagination here: fresh herbs, chilli flakes, etc., to liven up your dishes. You can also use it to season roast chicken, curries, popcorn, vegetables, etc.

And lastly, don’t throw out those peels. Fill up a jar and add white vinegar to cover. Leave for two weeks to infuse. Decant into a spray bottle and use as a surface spray to keep your kitchen sparkling. Can’t ask for more than that!

Lyn Hand

In 2015, Jeanie Wylie and Edward Rawlings moved from Ipswich in Queensland to Nashua, to the west of Bangalow. “We wanted to give farming a go, in a way it could sustain our family for the long-term,” says Jeanie. “As passionate foodies, our dream was to do something we both love.” Both had family connections to farming. Jeanie’s father started Inglewood Organics with his brother, while Edward grew up on an 80-acre cattle and horse farm and, before their move down south, had spent some time breeding rare breed pigs. (The first pig they bought was named Frida – but more of that later.)

The Nashua farm they bought – with Edward’s parents, Andrew and Sandra – had belonged to the Trimble family for 100 years and, most recently, had been used by a neighbour for cattle grazing. Although Edward’s work background had initially been in the finance industry, and Jeanie’s was in marketing and communications, back when they lived in London, both were keen to pursue the farming life. “We’re a good team,” Jeanie says. “I have some crazy ideas while Edward makes sure we think about viability.”

For the first few years, the family took time to get to know the area and the property. Their third child arrived – Arthur, now aged seven, after Evie, who’s nine and 12-year-old Freddie – and while they settled in, they set up an Air BnB cabin on the property. “We always thought we’d do a restaurant, after the kids, and also saw an opportunity on the farming side, to grow food in a sustainable way, andcut out the middle-man, keeping the margins in-house.”

From their early days in Nashua, Edward developed an interest in breeding cattle. They now have a Wagyu beef bull and a herd of about 50 head of Angus heifers, who are managed over their 16 paddocks. “Our primary focus with the cattle is to use them as a tool for regenerating our land, so we keep the herd small and rotationally cell-graze, moving them every few days. This improves the organic matter in our soils and sequesters carbon from the atmosphere.”

While Edward was primarily focused on the cattle, Jeanie was looking to find ways of earning a living from her quarter-acre market garden. There, she grows herbs and vegetables using organic gardening techniques such as composting, mulching, crop rotation, companion planting and making use of natural fertilisers teas. Many of their crops are grown from seed in their small greenhouse.

Next, the couple set about creating a forest, growing timber – such as eucalyptus grandis, blue quandong and silky oak – and food and rainforest trees, such as cassava, citrus and bananas. “We’re using techniques that strive to create and mimic the natural processes of a forest by interplanting a diversity of food crops, forest trees, and bio-mass plants which mature at different times. By actively pruning and mulching the plants, we build carbon-sequestering humus and soil fertility at an exponential rate, reducing the need for external inputs and improving the soil’s ability to retain water.” The result? A highly productive food forest. To find out just how to set about these various endeavours, Jeanie participated in Southern Cross University’s practical Regenerative Agriculture Mentoring Program (RAMP).

Finally, three years ago, the couple opened an on-farm restaurant “experience” called Frida’s Field, named after that first Ipswich pig. The restaurant – located in a purpose-built farmshed inspired wooden building – is open three days a week, with a set menu, catering for up to 80 people. The peaceful, easily accessible rural location is also in use as a wedding venue and event space.

Although the COVID years hit their business just as it had started, “things have now settled down and we can do some more forward planning,” Jeanie says. In busy summer months, the restaurant employs between 10 to 15 casual local staff, with three or four in the kitchen. Menus can use 30 to 50 percent of produce grown on the farm, otherwise their Scottish chef Alastair Waddell, sources ingredients direct from growers at the Byron farmers markets. And they do make use of some of the beef reared on site.

Meanwhile, the couple has infiltrated many dimensions of the Nashua community. Late in October, they hosted the annual Nashua Cricket Match on their farm. The popular community event was initially started in 1907 and was resurrected by local families in 2007. It has run every year since, utilising “the oldest concrete cricket pitch in NSW”. There’s a tug-of-war for the kids, and “anyone who likes cricket” comes along for the sausage sizzle or with a picnic to catch-up with local friends.

On 4 November, they will be holding their now sold-out first Spring Gathering at the farm, with live music, teepee making and nature crafts. That day, about 500 trees will be planted along the creek with Richmond Landcare and North Coast Local Land Services – with help from attendees – as part of the Marine Estate Management Strategy to improve riparian vegetation in the region. Further tree planting is planned next year along Wilsons River, with Local Land Services again, and Big Scrub Regeneration.

From 11 November onwards, another new regular summer event will be happening. “If you missed out on the Spring Gathering, we’ll be starting Summer Sundowners every Saturday afternoon. From 3pm, people can pop in, watch the sun setting while enjoying casual snacks and drinks,” Jeanie added. She advises that bookings are encouraged, but spontaneous walk-ins are also welcome.

fridasfield.com

Featured image Kate Holmes